Local Cuisine
Tri-Tip
Although barbecue is ubiquitous throughout the United States, the Central Valley is home to a cut of meat that does not exist anywhere else in the world: Tri-Tip. Weighing a scant 1.5 to 2.5 pounds, this tiny triangular muscle (tensor fasciae latae) lies at the bottom of the sirloin subprimal cut and seems to only be found on cows butchered in Central California.
It seems obvious to Central Valley butchers now, but its success was not so certain back in the early 1950s, when this bovine section was overlooked due to its tough, sinewy texture. Credit for the discovery of this sacred-cow part is shared by Otto Schaffer, a German immigrant butcher and former owner of Schaefer Meats in East Oakland, and Bob Schutz, a one-armed butcher and former meat manager at a Santa Maria Safeway. Both men are recognized as the founders and promoters of this previously unknown cut of meat. It just so happens that within the same year and within only a few hundred miles of each other, these two strangers each posed the same question with similar results: What if, instead of being ground for hamburger or chopped for stew, this tough little muscle got seasoned and slow roasted and carved just right? The delicious answer to that question has made food history in the Central Valley.
This tasty cut is a must-try for those coming to Fresno. There are two possible locations, depending upon which end of town you find yourself. On the north side of town, located in a strip mall off Cedar and Herndon, is a tri-tip kiosk called Mike’s Grill. This spot is for those who want a picnic-like experience, as it offers only folding chairs and rickety card tables beneath a tarp on hot pavement. These sacrifices may be worth the flavorful, tender tri-tip Mike offers, but those with fussy kids who are looking for fries, a decent bathroom, and a temperature controlled dining room may want to look downtown where you can find Big D’s Tri Tip & More. Located on a triangular corner, very much shaped like the tri trip itself, Big D’s is in an old brick building that has recently been renovated as part of the revitalization of downtown Fresno. It has tables and chairs beneath a real roof and plenty of space to accommodate the tri-tip-hungry customers. They offer tri-tip plates, tri-tip tacos, tri-tip chili, tri-tip chili dogs, and tri-tip frito boats all for reasonable rates. One thing to note is they close at three each day, so don’t plan on this spot for supper.
If you are a do-it-yourself kind of grill man (or woman) and you want to take a bit of the Central Valley dining experience home with you to Connecticut or wherever you hail from, I have included a recipe for grilling this yourself. However, you may need to stock an ice chest full of the meat to take back with you, as you will likely be disappointed trying to find it at meat markets in your hometown where the butchers are probably grinding up this muscular gem instead of proudly placing it in the display case for the culinary pleasure of the true meat connoisseur.
Bob’s Simple Tri-Tip Recipe
2-2.5 lb. tri-tip roast
Salt
Pepper
Garlic Salt
Rub the seasonings to cover the entire tri-tip roast. Place the roast on a spit and grill over an open flame (if available, use red oak wood to start the fire). Roast for 45 minutes or until the thick juices are dripping from the meat into the fire and you can wait no longer. Take it off the spit and be sure to slice against the grain, as this is what ensures a tender texture. Enjoy this Central Valley favorite and share it with friends!
The Existential Van 